Thursday, March 17, 2011

Time to get back to work


I say this as the truth.  Having the past few days in Cabo to unwind and relax has been fantastic.  Chilling with my Dad, eating well, drinking cervesas and surfing every day has been a nice break from days on the bike.  That being said... I look forward to firing up my bike and heading back out on the road.  

I'm heading up to La Paz, Baja in a couple of hours and I catch my ferry to mainland Mexico at 7pm tonight.  I'm glad I booked my ticket last week when I did as I could see myself waking up in Cabo with a mystery of where the past 4+ weeks went.  

It is now time to get back to work.  Time to get back to my focus, back to my goal.  Time to get my synapses firing in line, to put my head down and to get my bike pointed south.

La Paz, Baja Mexico.

Leaving the Hotel Yeneka hours before reaching Cabo. 


Back to where I had my board made, this time arriving on my moto.

Having eats and cervesas at the Baja Brewing Co. with my Padre


The streets of San Jose del Cabo's 'Old Town' have been exciting and vibrant since I arrived.  They are having an 11 day celebration in honour of the City's patron saint - San Jose (St. Joseph).  There are a ton of food vendors, live music, entertainment, with carnivals and parades this weekend.  The festival ramps right up and the grand celebration will happen in the main square this weekend. 


Tacos al pastor (shaved pork), one of my favourites down here. 

My Dad satisfying his sweet-tooth


Me and my chicas...

So, I bought another board from Alex at the Costa Azul Surf Shop.  After buying my ferry ticket to mainland Mexico, I changed my plan to come back through Cabo on my way home in May.  The ferry ticket was about $300 so I figure I will be able to save that 3 hundy on my way back north.  I'll instead use it for fuel and accommodation to get home. 

After planning not to come back, I figured I'd pick up a different board that I could sell either in Costa Rica or Panama before heading back north.  Alex set me up with a similar design (in the pic above - board on the right) to the design he made custom for me in the fall (above on the left).  The board I'll take and sell is a 6'10" squash tail which is super fun.  I took it out to the local break and caught some good waves.  Thanks to Alex Olea for all of his help and support at Costa Azul. 

Heading out to fuel-up - the only day I took Rojo for a spin on his days-off.  I had a nice garage to store my bike while here... (thanks to Eric for the use of his garage.) 

You could see how easy it would be to stay here

Acapulquito surf break


Alex Olea trying out one of his new spring shapes.


Alex Olea


Dad enjoying a ceviche de camaron at our friend Jesus's restaurant 'T.N.T.' in San Jose.



Time to load up my bike, eat some lunch and then hit the road.  Thanks to my Dad for his generosity and support.

Time for Mexico....

Saturday, March 12, 2011

"Holy fu@k, I'm going down!"


These were the words I yelled out loud 1.5hrs into my 5hr, 187km overland trip from San Ignacio to San Juanico.  I once sampled some BC sand for a stretch of about 50m way back in the day, but I wasn't on a motorcycle.  I was in fact walking through the sand at a local beach and finding it very tough at the time.  I read in a few places on ADV rider that when one experiences sand on a two wheeled, gas powered machine, there is one very important thing that you do... you punch-it.  (Then, you commit, and hold-on).

I saw my first section of deep, unavoidable sand and I did what I read, I punched-it.  I was already going about 50kph on hard pack when I encountered this zone of sand so by the time I hit the throttle, I was up to at least 60.  I committed, held onto the bars and my bike started violently zig-zagging all over the place.  This was the exact moment I yelled out loud, 'Holy fu@k, I'm going down!'. 


The zig-zagging brought my speed down substantially at which time I regained control of my bike.  I have no clue how this happened, but I am grateful it did.  Miraculously it all came together and I was spared from eating some serious Baja-shit (this time anyway). 

One of my Baja gas stations, 'Fill 'er up amigo!'










Now, just wait a second here... ???
One of the countless tidal flats - I made good time on these sections cruising at 90kph keeping 'er pointed south.
In the middle of Baja nowhere
At one point I was certain I was lost.  So, I stopped in the middle of the road and engaged in a little Nelson-style meditation pray session.  It seemed to work as I'm here to tell about it...


The next few times I hit sand, my tuned changed.  I checked my speed, slowed right down and crept through it in control.  I came to realize that it all has to do with the depth of the sand, if it didn't look too deep, I'd keep my speed, if it was deep, I'll reel it in a bit.  I could definitely feel a few more gray hairs sprouting through my Baja sand experience, probably good for me.   

'By the looks of that sign, I'm guessing I'm right on track...'
Loving the wash-board goodness - hrs of it.
Pulling into a remote fishing village 100km south of Laguna San Ignacio



I like lists.
Time for a list.

The following words, phrases and statements best describe my off road adventure a few days ago - in no particular order:

- exciting
- reasonable BC logging road action
- bumpy
- nerve wracking 
- smooth-sailing
- rattle-my-brain-washboard
- smooth n' fast
- bouldery
- knee deep water crossing through not-so-dry 'arroyo' (dry river bed)
- lost
- tengo hambre
- time to meditate in middle of road and pull it together
- x2 rabid dogs trying to eat me from both directions (lovely moment in fishing village)
- sandy
- more sandy only different sandy sand
- fish tailing fun, loving my new Dunlop rubber
- 'Are we there yet??'
- I SEE WAVES!!!!





















Pulling into Scorpion Bay and seeing the perfect peelers was a welcomed sight
I had a great room (top right) at Lupitas with cold cervesas in the mini mercado below and ocean views.
Maia the dog guarding my hotel with enthusiasm
First surf session of the trip, pretty small swell, but so great to be on the water. 
The quirky courtyard of Hotel Yeneka, La Paz, Baja
I was told to wheel my bike off the street and right through the lobby of Hotel Yeneka where it slept for the night. 

I made it to La Paz after a long day and roughly 400+ kms of typical Baja paved roads.  I spent the night at the recommended and quirky Hotel Yeneka and while in La Paz I was able to purchase my ferry ticket to Mazatlan for the sailing next Thursday. 

I'm now in San Jose del Cabo and have met up with my Padre.  It is nice being in a familiar place with family.  I'm planning a few days of relaxing with my Dad, some bike maintenance and definitely some surf at my favorite breaks.  5 nights here and then off the Mainland Mexico.   

Time for a cervesa!

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

SoCal to Baja Sur – So, how IS the surfboard on the bike??


I know most of you are wondering how the board + bike combo is working out. So let me get right into it. I am presently in San Ignacio just south of Guerrero Negro, Baja Sur. Officially, the transition point for Baja Norte and Baja Sur is at G.Negro therefore I have pretty much made it to the half-way point of the Baja in about 3 days... AND, I'm in one piece.

My surf-rack testing occurred in Encinitas, CA a few days back.  As mentioned, I shipped my board, new tire and a few other items to Encinitas for my arrival. The first morning I was in town I headed to a motorcycle shop to get my new Dunlop D606 rubber put on and balanced.  I then loaded up my board on my bike, threw on the panniers with a bit of weight and I hit the PCH (Pacific Coast Hwy) for a test ride. I was SO surprised how the bike + board handled. It was solid at speed and I even had some off shore winds that made me a hint nervous, but I barely noticed the effects of the surfboard on my bike... all good.


“Houston, we have lift-off” 





I enjoyed checking out the Southern California surf, but didn't have enough time to hit it... I was eager to hit the road south.


Encinitas, California.
If you can guess how many boards are in this rack, you get the Stewart in the middle!
The Cardiff 'Kook' - the day I headed into Baja, he was dressed up Marti-Gras
Fresh meat.
The real test was fully loading my bike + board and bringing the package, including me, the test-pilot, all up to hwy speeds... then, see how truck traffic and winds would effect it, oh, and throw in crazy mexican drivers and cows for good measure. All of this didn't occur until my departure morning from Encinitas a few days back. I was lucky enough to read a post last summer on a forum of an ADV Rider named Igor who rode his KLR from San Diego to Argentina. He passed along a great piece of advice in his trip report.  Igor went into Tijuana to get all of his importation paperwork and tourist cards sorted and then headed back into San Diego for a solid nights sleep.  The next day, he hit the trails south leaving the border in his dust. Thanks to Igor's success and his forum, I did the same. It took me roughly 2.5 hrs to get everything sorted in Tijuana, and I then headed back to the U.S. and had a great departure night with good friends. The following morning I was sure glad to have all of that in my back pocket. When I passed into Mexico, I looked over at a few GS riders who were in the midst of the border torment. I owe Igor a beer.

 
I took Jesus up on a drive-by embrace... it was nice.
Lunch in San Vincente - Baja Norte
Loads of open road in the Baja
I am into the Baja roughly 1230kms. I have now hit 4 military check-points, encountered intense winds from all directions, flew past Federali policia, dodged tumbleweeds, all with an average speed of 90-100kph (~50-60mph). I am very satisfied with the surf rack design and how my board and bike are handling the elements. To be honest, I am still quite surprised.

The one downside: I have yet to surf. The first x2 spots I have checked out have been fully blown-out by wind. Cuatro Casas was too windy as was another spot called 'The Wall'.


Cuatro Casas night guard
'Rojo' - my fully loaded work-horse


Mision San Ignacio - completed in 1786
I am presently in San Ignacio getting prepped for an off-road excursion tomorrow. This is where the main highway 1 heads east to the Sea of Cortez and then south through Mulege and Loreto. I'm heading south west of San Ignacio tomorrow through dirt, washboard, salt flats, and fishing villages and then into San Juanico also known by surfers as Scorpion Bay – a world class right point break. This overland trip will shave off about 300-400kms of riding on paved roads that work south-east, back west and then north to the same location.

I guess this is why I'm not on a Ducati.

My overland route to San Juanico - Scorpion Bay